|Scientific Name:||Gongylophis colubrinus|
|Length:||91 cm (3 feet)|
Adult female varieties of G. colubrinus are infrequently over 91 cm (3 feet) in total measurement (counting tail). The Kenyan sand boa is profoundly erected with a tiny head, tiny eyes, and a short tail. The hue outline may contain a beige or red pattern covered with dark brown marks. The belly is snowy or cream stained. It is willingly obtainable in the pet trade due to its tiny size, tameness, and effortlessness of care. In current years there have been several novels alters made obtainable by equally profitable and diversion breeders.
Some of the further prevalent morphs accessible contain anerythristic Kenyan sand boas (dark and snowy lacking red/pink simple retreating attribute), albino Kenyan sand boas (lacking dark color simple retreating), snow KSBs (double falling mixture of an anery and albino), stripes (standard stained, anerythristic, albino and snow), hypo/ghost, anerythristic KSBs, paradox albinos (simple retreating), paradox snows (double receding characteristic), splash (retreating), paint (retreating) and stripe mixtures with any of the registered ebbing personalities. Also, numerous line bred personalities have been emphasized on the above morphs, for example, Nuclear (extreme red), High Whites, Reduced Patterns as samples.
Kinds of Kenyan Sand Boa Morphs
Anerythristic Kenyan Sand Boas cannot yield creamy or red color. They look black or grey and snowy and are one of the most prevalent morphs as of their outstanding differences. Reduced spotted anerythristic Kenyan sand boas is a sample of line breeding for a decrease of outline that produces anerythristics that have extra silver than a black or grey outline.
Albino Kenyan Sand Boas lack the skill to yield dark color. Their insignia differ from beige and cream spotted loads to bright red and purple-stained saddles. The insignia is resolute by their paternity and by breeding livelier stained parents together can yield some outstanding carroty and cream stained albino Kenyan sand boas.
Albino Paradox Kenyan Sand Boas are very conspicuous and hereditarily receding which means they are one of the uncommon reptiles that the distinguishing black spotting aka paradox is probably reproducible.
Hypomelanistic Kenyan Sand Boas yield less melanin which grounds their distinguishing tan/black saddling to be a much brighter hue.
Splash Kenyan Sand Boas lack outline or have unusual patterns classically on their lowest third of the snakes.
Stripe Kenyan Sand Boa has a line that runs diagonally the top of their bodies.
Size and Longevity
These are amongst the smallest boa classes in the world. Males are naturally much smaller than females and rarely portion more than 2 feet when developed. Females are weightier bodied (to care development and live to birth) and reach a supreme size of 3 feet.
Kenyan sand boas are very robust and easy to retain. With decent husbandry and care to appropriate care rules, these snakes will animate well over 20 years.
Because of their tiny size and sedentary nature, Kenyan sand boas may be contained in justly small and suitable inclusions. Babies can be upheld in a normal 10-gallon terrarium for their initial year or so. Afterward, sole animals should be contained in a 15 to 20-gallon terrarium, or corresponding inclusion. Couples or trios must be prearranged correspondingly more space.
These snakes do not ascent, and in fact, infrequently scheme overhead the surface of the substrate. This trait lets for the habit of low-profile reservoirs that bid additional floor space nonetheless a least of height. All inclusions for sand boas must have safe screen lids to stop seepages and guarantee satisfactory aeriation.
Heating and Lighting
As a desert type, Kenyan sand boas must be held in reserve hot throughout the day with a minor drop in temperature in the evening. The warm side of the inclusion must be between 90 and 95 degrees throughout the day, with admittance to chiller zones in the low 80’s. At evening temperatures can securely drop to 70 degrees, though somewhat warmer night temps seem beneficial for newer animals.
The temperature may be provided through the usage of ceramic temperature emitters, ordinary heat bulbs, and heating cloths intended exactly for reptile usage. Additional lighting is not compulsory for this class. Through continuous contact to light can be traumatic for any animal, so if temperature lights are used throughout the day, they must be swapped by an extra method of temperature after dark.
Substrate and Furnishings
Being a comparatively sedentary type, Kenyan sand boas do not need intricate inclusions. A few edges of the substrate must be provided for digging. Sand can be used without harm on condition that your snakes are nourished in another vessel to avert breakdown. Other appropriate substrates comprise aspen chips (Sani-chips), torn aspen, or any additional desert-kind sheet that is intended for use with snakes and is not too dirty.
Though utmost sand boas will devote the majority of their period burrowed into holes, a few extra hiding spots can be supplementary. Chunks of cork bay and half-logs are equally satisfactory. Dodge weighty bits of stone or timber that may settle onto a burrowing snake and reason severe wounds. Additional garlands, for example, flexible cacti can be used at the keeper’s pleasure nonetheless will be more for design sake than for functionality.
Water and Humidity
Kenyan sand boas must be kept dry as to pretend the deserts from which they initiate. Flaking problems are occasional with these classes, nonetheless, if they happen provisionally presenting your snakes a local zone of amplified moisture would solve the issue.
In enclosures with awning tops, a small water bowl may be provided continuously. Though, since these animals are so subtle to high stages of moisture, water dishes must only be obtainable one or two times a week in less aired inclusions or rack arrangements.
As with additional features of sand boa husbandry, nourishing is justly upfront. Snakes of all sizes must be obtainable one properly sized victim piece once a week. An appropriately sized mouse for a sand boa must be just large enough to leave a clear swell in the snake’s stomach. Newborn (pinky) rats are perfect for hatchlings, whereas big adults will effortlessly devour a completely adult mouse.
Pre-killed victims (moreover newly killed or ice-covered/melted) are suggested to decrease the probability of bites to your snake throughout the contracting procedure. Moreover, feeding your snakes in a vessel other than their main home is recommended. This guarantees that no substrate is swallowed when you snake feeds and likewise seems to abridged on the general level of violence of the animal when it is in its inclusion.
Though these snakes are seldom seen traveling their inclusions, they can be detached and touched effortlessly. They are not violent, and samples that have been touched frequently will become fairly domestic. Bear in mind that these snakes like to warren, so their actions on hard ground and in your hands may look spastic and jittery. This is typical, and they must regulate to your touch over time.
As with any snake, dodge over treatment. If your snake appears strained as specified by the absence of appetite or uncommon hostility, reflect reducing the incidence of treatment sessions till the animal’s conduct regularizes.
Subspecies / Taxonomy / Etymology
The Kenyan sand boa has no category presently documented by scientists. All the same, some authorities identify 2 strains, Eryx colubrinus colubrinus, and Eryx colubrinus Loveridge, though this is interrogated and the class is measured to be monotypic with some physical difference.
The genus term originates from the Latin term colubrinus, denotating “having snake-like potentials.” Whereas the class subspecific term, loveridgei, was prearranged in the integrity of Arthur Loveridge, a British herpetologist.
These snakes breed gamely from November until April, with the offspring being born from spring through late summer. From time to time before breeding can happen, the male has to dig the female out of the grit.
The Kenyan sand boa is an ovoviviparous snake class, meaning the new snakes grow inside egg sacs which gestated inside the female’s physique. After a development period of 4 months, the female delivers to live young, typically among 5 to 20 young snakes.
At birth, the younglings are about 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm) long and sovereign from birth. These sand boas range sexual adulthood at 2 or 3 years of age.
Conservation / Threats
The Kenyan sand boa has not yet been measured for the IUCN Red List and is likewise not registered in CITES Appendix II. Little is recognized regarding them within their innate variety and what undesirable issues may be distressing their populace.
Additional investigation is required to discover whether these snakes are proficient in familiarizing to new human-adapted surroundings as human growth intrudes into their natural territory. It’s credible that habitat obliteration in Egypt is upsetting harmfully the Kenyan sand boa populace in that area.
Lately, they developed the most general sand boa class reserved as a domesticated in the USA, exceptional even the close by found rubber boa (Charina bottae). Nonetheless, the Kenyan sand boa cumulative approval in the pet craft may likewise subsidize to lessening populace figures in the wild.
In the 1970s, a small number of samplings were introduced from Kenya and the late 1980s till 1995 several were introduced from northern Tanzania to the US. But in 1995 Tanzania set a halt to the transfer of sand boas, and later then, wild-trapped samples are no longer obtainable. Luckily, they are nowadays being raised in big statistics in confinement, helping to decrease the danger to the wild inhabitants.
The main habitats of the Kenyan sand boa are semi-desert and undergrowth savannahs and rock projections, all surroundings where there is moveable sand to hole in. The array over Egypt, Sudan, Ethiopia, Kenya, Libya, Chad, Niger, Yemen, Tanzania, in addition to Somalia.
Kenyan sand boas are constrictors that mostly feed on tiny mammals in addition to lizards. Sand boas will untrain in low holes, with only their heads unprotected, and pause to ambuscade their victim. Once wrapped about their victim, the sand boa may slog it below the sand to consume. Sand boas will likewise go into the holes of other animals to quarry on the young.
Infrequently, sand boas halt accepting nourishment, or, in the case of babies, never even begin to feed. Succeeding are some instructions to help get problematic sand boas to take nourishment.
The primary motive that young and afresh developed snakes do not feed is inappropriate environment — inclusion scope, substrate, hiding zones, heating, etc. Verify to make certain conditions are precise.
The victim item may be the incorrect scope. Sand boas even from time to time waste food that is too insignificant. They typically willingly receive victim that is approximately as large around as they are at the densest point. Attempt feeding bigger foodstuffs slightly than smaller ones; this has functioned for me predominantly with rough-scaled sand boas.
Prey classes also brand a variance. Some folks may favor mice to rats, or vice versa. Attempt changing food matters, as well as mice, rats, hamsters, gerbils, chicks or tiny birds, and small lizards, for example, Sceloporus or Anolis.
If all else flops, the next stage would be to “dry the snake out.” Take away the water vessel and upturn the temperature a degree or two. After a week, give a dripping wet victim item, moving it to the snake’s mouth. Frequently the snake will drink from the nourishment, and then continue to consume it. This technique has operated numerous times with rough-scaled sand boas as well as Russian sand boas.
Since they’re small and sluggish stirring on top of that, they will be comparatively easy to grip – and that’s continuously a good thing, particularly for beginner snake possessors.
As for their usual actions, they are recognized to be an investigating type, favoring to stay subversive most of the time, coming up for the precise time to pop out. Throughout the day under scorching temperatures, you must not assume to see them an entire lot, nonetheless, throughout the evening they feel way more relaxed with peeking out and having some enjoyment. This has some rewards as well as difficulties, so you should bear it in mind.
Maybe the superlative thing about this type is their superb insignia, particularly their morphs. Their usual hue is a soft white body with beige, carroty and tan spots all over. Though, the loveliest presences and insignia typically come from one of their converts.
As for the bite, you’re perhaps speculating, “Are they venomous?”
The response is – No. Kenyan Sand Boas are non-poisonous species. In its place, they are constrictor snakes that cloak around their victim to smother it, after which they continue to swallow it. Though their bite won’t make you sickening, it is still a depraved knowledge to get gnawed as it can reason some discomfort and uneasiness. Also, if you stretch your snake a motive to bite you, it means that your pet was perhaps heavily worried out, and that’s constantly a bad mark.
Kenyan Sand Boas seldom bite individuals, nonetheless, if they do so, then it’s for the reason that they’ve been unprotected to pressure. If you see that your pet has developed nervousness, it’s finest to consent it unaided for a while and response far ahead.
Kenyan Sand Boa Care
Taking the attention of your Sand Boa must be a comparatively easy job. We previously stated their quiet nature and small scope, the only item you must bear in your mind is the reservoir, and its stipulations, which is likewise an easy chore.
When it arises to their coverage, it’s best to retain it as normal as imaginable, imitating those desert parts of Northeastern Africa. Here are some over-all rules for covering Kenyan Sand Boa:
- As a minimum 10-gallon terrarium
- Temperatures around 85 to 95-degree F
- Moisture very low, under 30% all the time
- Laxer substrate – aspen/sand and alike
- Vessel with protected lid and if possible, with some air holes
This species needs a very tiny space, and they are fairly contented in 10-gallon terrariums. You must pay superior care to temperature, save an underneath tank heater/heat cloth, and use a thermostat to regulate the temperature. You can let it drop down to 85F throughout the evening and through the breeding period. Your radiator must be on continuously, particularly if you have an expectant female at your care.
Distinct lighting is gratuitous, Kenyan Sand Boas are fairly contented with slight light, and they only need some small bright light throughout the daytime. You don’t require to use garlands as this class will continuously favor to the lair, nonetheless, you can make use of some stopper bark and other light garlands. Do not use weighty pillars as they may upset, even slay your pet when it’s digging. Florae and woods are also essential as Sand Boas are not ascending class.
As for the substrate, even if their term may suggest so – sand is essentially not the finest substrate. The motive is that it may get fixed in their gut throughout nourishing stages, triggering internal difficulties that can make them sick. An idyllic substrate would be somewhat like an aspen sheet, which is less probable to cause difficulties throughout digestion.
Keep the setting and substrate as parched as conceivable, and make certain your water plate doesn’t trip, which can reason moisture problems. This can be an issue for some snakes, so it’s finest to retain it as dry as probable.
Making a realistic vivarium arrangement can be very sustaining, nonetheless, one instruction should continuously apply: Protection first! All weighty kinds of stuff must be prudently protected so that the snake cannot advance them fade — by ascending, pushing, or digging — and perhaps be crumpled. The plan should also be practical. Though beautiful it might seem to shape a pillar mound in the vivarium, discovering your snake inside it would be almost intolerable. Check the embellishment so that you have relaxed access to each part of the inclusion without having to go weighty items.
Everything that goes into the inclusion must be prepared methodically previously. A passé solution of peroxide in a warm liquid is satisfactory for washing cage fittings. Pillars, timber, bark, and false florae are all beautiful for the sand boa inclusion. Driftwood is usually obtainable in numerous pet shops and makes a first-amount decoration for any terrarium.
Kenyan Sand Boa Breeding
With its standing of being one of the finest novice snake pets, Kenyan Sand Boa is likewise actual laid-back to breed. They have no difficulties in mating in confinement, so that’s an additional plus.
Before you try to strain them, you must distinguish between discerning males and females, which is informally specified that they are a dimorphic class, with variances in sex.
Males will typically be smaller, and Females will be bigger.
That’s frequently all the data you will need to distinguish them effectively. If they’re well-nourished and established, you will effortlessly notice the bigger female. Now that you distinguish the modification, it’s time for some groundwork.
The finest thing you can prepare before presenting your snakes together is to stretch them some period to concoct for their breeding period. To do this, you must begin by matching down and dropping your heating system. By rivaling cooler temperatures, you are motioning your pets that the breeding period is about to start. Preferably, you need to fix this 6-8 week preceding to your effort.
As soon as your snakes are in the breeding disposition, you just have to familiarize them with each other. Except they show violent actions to each other from the beginning, it’s good knowledge to just leave them alone. If your male looks inactive and unconcerned, you could try presenting a second male into the blend, which will brand the first one more probable to strain, particularly when he smells that additional male is near-by.
Now that you’ve matched your Kenyan Sand Boas together, you must see them twig embrace with sights of wooing and even copulation if you’re fortunate enough. Though, this will most probable to occur throughout the evening while you’re not observing.
After around ten days, the breeding should be completed. A good mark of fruitful breeding is a somewhat bigger belly on your female, meaning that it’s booming tiny babies inside. Kenyan Sand Boa is a live-bearing class, meaning that they don’t lay offspring, which can be a vast plus, particularly for novices.
Your female will attempt to get as much temperature contact as probable, typically hanging close to your radiator, trying to stretch some extra warmth to her offspring. You may see an upsurge in appetite, particularly throughout the last months of her gestation stage. After one or two months, your female will give birth to around 10-20 small offspring, which they must be detached and placed in another vessel. Offer them, one after another, tiny pinky mouse and let them gradually raise and mature into adult pets.
As for your mother snake, you can suppose a post-ovulation shed, and she perhaps won’t be too attentive in eating after this stage. She may likewise deal with some small weight loss, nonetheless, allot her a month or two to recover that back, and it’ll be tolerable.
Kenyan Sand Boa Enclosure
The Kenyan sand boa is tempting to numerous keepers for its slight space necessities. Even the main female Kenyan sand boa can be securely contained in a 10-gallon reptile terrarium with a protected top, or a likewise sized inclusion. A plastic storing vessel of suitable sizes, along with air hovels, will too effort well in a heated deferring part. The shelves must be firmly snug with a little area above the upper part of the separate vessel since Kenyan sand boas can effortlessly push the cover off of a soft vessel.
If a terrarium with a screen cover is made for the Kenyan sand boa, I recommend consuming an under-tank heating cloth below one side of the crate, left on 24/7, along with a glowing overhead lamp fitting throughout the day, to warm the air in the crate. The hotspot underneath the light must be around 95 degrees Fahrenheit, and the chiller side of the inclusion must be about 80 degrees. A drop to the mid-70s in the evening is satisfactory. This can be restrained using reptile thermometers.
Assumed the Kenyan sand boa’s tendency for digging, habitat fittings should be slight. Heavy pillars must be evaded, except they are firmly secured to the inclusion. If a Kenyan sand boa digs underneath weighty pillars and reasons a mini-avalanche, the outcome could be wound or even demise to the snake. Notwithstanding its tiny size, the Kenyan sand boa can be very damaging to your cage’s inner strategy, so furnishings do not need to be extreme.
A durable earthenware container, like the Petrageous plate, is a good option as a water plate for a Kenyan sand boa. A light plastic liquid plate will be effortlessly pushed over, perhaps entangling the setting. The only time the crate must have high moisture is throughout the Kenyan sand boa’s shed sequence. High moisture is significant throughout the shed sequence to guarantee all of the covering comes off securely. A moist hide container is infrequently used, so I favor to use a good unfashionable spray flask. It’s too a lot of information to upsurge the moisture in a plastic container than it is in an outside atmosphere, for example, a terrarium with a screen cover. You can portion the dampness with reptile hygrometers.
Kenyan Sand Boa Breeding Season
Kenyan sand boas typically breed in the late-term and through the spring period. We characteristically start coupling our male Kenyan sand boas with our females during February and see that fruitful couplings are less probable to yield after May. Though, it is not rare to have one or two females that will strain out of period as we usually have a small number of female Kenyan sand boas that will reproduce in the summer and give us babies in the wintertime.
Kenyan sand boas love to be kept warm and require a lounging zone with a temperature of 32-35c, though they can be preserved between 35-38c to help hearten a problematic feeder to consume.
There must be a temperature slope to let the snake to properly thermoregulate. This is simply attained by taking only a third of the vivarium floor protected by a heat cloth so that the snake can opt if it needs to loosen up or cool down.
The temperature must be given by a heat cloth as these snakes do well with stomach warmth, so their heat foundation needs to be underneath them. When applied with a Faunarium or Terranium, the heated cloth must be located beneath the cover. A regulator must be applied to regulate the temperature of the heated cloth and to stop the mat from hotness and scorching the snake. The temperature must be checked precisely using a cardinal thermometer.
Kenyan Sand Boa does not need any distinct lighting or UVB light. Except they are being reserved in a dark area, in which case it suggested that an area might be left on to help create a daytime and evening series.
Kenyan sand boas live a regular of 20-25 years, nonetheless, some strong individuals have been recognized to animate for 30 years. Numerous veterinarians do not take the training to give treatment to snakes, so the owner will require to find a specialist veterinarian to help their snake if wanted. Specialty veterinarians inclined to be more exclusive than regular veterinarians are. Kenyan sand boas are disposed to obesity, so owners must be cautious not to overfeed them.
Signs of a Healthy Animal
- Lively and attentive
- Vibrant eyes (excluding when shedding)
- Eats frequently
- Healthy membrane
- Frequently sheds skin in one whole piece
- Free of nits and ticks
- strangely recurrent or occasional shedding
- sluggish or unwilling to eat
- irregular feces
- lumps or spots on the skin
- tortured breathing
- trouble shedding
- white, tacky matter in the mouth
Common Health Issues
Sores, fast shedding produced by an impure environment or one that is too cold or moist. Refer your veterinarian, hygienic the environment and lower dampness.
2) Respiratory disease
Difficult breathing, secretion in mouth or nostrils. It can be produced by an environment that is too cold or moist. Refer to your veterinarian and retain the snake at the right temperature and dry.
White, tacky material in the mouth, loss of fangs, and hunger. If untreated can be deadly. Directly refer to your veterinarian.
4) Ticks and mites
Pests on the membrane can convey illness.
Fun Facts on Kenyan Sand Boa
- Alternating carroty and tan insignia are running down its posterior. The class is sexually dimorphic, meaning males in addition to females vary in look.
- Not sufficiently is recognized about this class since it spends around 80 percent of its lifespan hidden in the sand.
- Seldom attacks or bites.
- Head is formed like a spade to hole in the shingle.
Kenyan sand boas are easy-going and relaxed snakes that are exceptional for novice snake owners. Kenyan sand boas are not specified to biting or unwarranted violence. If they feel endangered, they will typically try to hole underground and cover. Though similar to any animal, if they feel vulnerable and are confronted with no path of escape, they will attack.
When well mingled and raised with compassion and care, Kenyan sand boas make delightful pets. They typically have a calm indifference to visitors and a silent love for its owner or direct human household. Kenyan sand boas incline to be more loving than the mainstream of other kinds of pet snakes, and will frequently borrow underneath their owner’s garments and nestle close to them to keep warm and protected. Kenyan sand boas are a daytime snake, so they are lively throughout the day and slumber in the evening. They are an outstanding choice for a beginner snake owner; though, they are not decent pets for young kids.
This is a continuous subject of debate among snake keepers. I presently save all my sand boas on aspen sheet, though over the years I have used newspaper, shingle, bay chips, savannah timber chips, and corncob substrate. The following are the advantages and disadvantages of numerous substrate resources.
Aspen. This comparatively inexpensive bedding of shredded timber is lightweight and simple for the snakes to dig in, so I do not even use it unless it has hide containers in my tubs. Aspen is comparatively striking and immerses up defecation rapidly. The only downside is that it is frequently dirty. It is a good impression to jiggle it well to eliminate most of the dirt before placing it into the inclusion.
Newspaper. This is the most commercial substrate, nonetheless, it has numerous disadvantages. Broadsheet, laid flat on the lowest part of the terrarium, cannot be spot prepared; as an alternative, it must be detached and changed with new paper every week or two. If you tumble the water vessel, you have to change the entire lot. Similarly, the newspaper does not let the snake hole, so you must offer hiding homes (as a minimum two). This means additional dusting. Though, if you have the time, the broadsheet is the most disinfected substrate.
Bark chips. I discover this to be the most appealingly fair, nonetheless likewise the most unsanitary substrate. When moist, bark chips deliver promising settings for small fleas. I observed an upsurge in snake mites when I was consuming this substrate. Likewise, the color of bay chips makes it hard to spot feces, which I consequently frequently carelessly left in the containers for a long time. I keep planning to go back to this type of substrate for its look, but then again it just isn’t valuing the hassle.
Savannah chips. These beechwood chips are not a prodigious substrate for sand boas. After a short time, they become compressed, making a more solid substrate coating that is not as easy for the snakes to hole under. If this substrate turns out to be damp or mucky, fungal development appears more quickly than with any supplementary substrate I have tried. It is likewise weightier than some further substrates and rather exclusive.
Sand. When individuals think of sand boas, they mechanically undertake that the finest substrate material for these snakes would be gravel. Nevertheless, in fact, of all the diverse class and variabilities of sand boas, there are perhaps only two that are truthfully sand inhabitants, the Arabian, and the Saharan, and even these are fairly content on lighter substrates for example aspen. Gravel is tremendously weighty, and a real effort to work with. Some types are very dirty. If it gets damp, gravel takes a shocking quantity of time to dry and can retain the level of crate moisture high for more than a few days. A sand boa can grasp a gulp of incomprehensible sand along with a victim item, gulp it all together, and wind up with a gut impaction. Alternatively, the shingle is simple to clean with a filter or scoop.
The first thing you need to prepare is the enclosure. Make sure that you only choose the right size and kind of enclosure for your reptile. The size should be appropriate for the size of your snake. This way, your pet snake will feel comfortable.
2) Know its diet
You must know the kind of diet your snake needs. The time and day of the feeding time are very important if you wish to have your pet snake for a long time.
3) Go to your vet
Make sure that you visit your vet, especially if you notice some changes to your pet snake. Your vet is the only person who could help you deal with such kind of snake’s issues.
Different pet shops are catering to such kinds of reptiles these days. However, make sure that you only go and rely on a reptile shop that could provide you healthy snakes. It will help a lot to get in touch with professional snake breeders for more recommendations and referrals.
How frequently must I feed my sand boa?
Feed your sand boa 1 mouse every 7-14 days.
Females have a habit of eating more regularly, so provide your female snake nourishment once a week. Your male snake will naturally only need to eat every 10-14 days.
Are Kenyan sand boas decent for novices?
A Kenyan sand boa is an outstanding novice snake, and if you like the impression of regularly handling your pet, this could be the pet for you. … Though utmost sand boas are actual well worked, a sporadic individual may be somewhat jittery.
Does a Kenyan sand boa bite hurt?
A sand boa bite is not that badly more than a housecat scrape, nonetheless, it can still be aching for you and shocking for the snake, and a bite should be circumvented.
How frequently do Kenyan sand boas shed?
We endorse you nourish female sand boas each week and to the males every single 10 to 14 days. Kenyan sand boas that are flaking will frequently strike and tighten their meal, nonetheless, then leave it. We do not nourish any of our snakes throughout their shed series.